Currant is a densely growing shrub that requires proper care in the autumn period, otherwise its yield will decrease every year. In the end, the bush will have to be removed, and in its place a new plant will be planted. With proper handling of the shrub, you can increase the period of fruiting up to 15 years or more. What does care for currants in autumn consist of, we will find out further.
Pruning
Pruning is an agricultural technique that is carried out in all berry bushes to increase their productivity. The fact is that properly formed bushes bring 3-4 times more berries in comparison with neglected plants, in which unnecessary shoots take most of the vitality. In addition, cropping allows you to achieve the following tasks:
- destroy up to 85% of all parasites, fungi and bacteria;
- to form a healthy crown (after pinching, the shoots stop growing in length, and on each of them several fruiting branches begin to develop);
- increase the photosynthesis process due to sufficient illumination of the remaining shoots;
- prepare the shrub for winter (a properly formed bush will withstand severe frosts, moreover, 10 ° C lower than unkempt);
- get a good harvest with excellent quality and marketability.
Of course, in order to achieve such results, it is necessary to choose the right time for this garden manipulation, and also follow a number of rules for its implementation.
When to crop?
It is better to carry out forming and rejuvenating pruning of bushes in autumn, after waiting for yellowing and falling of the leaves, so that the roots get assimilants from the old branches - organic compounds released during photosynthetic fixation and restoration of carbon dioxide in plants. They will help shrubs tolerate the winter, being used as reserve nutrients.
After harvesting in the summer, only preventive or sanitary pruning of the plant can be carried out. The spring movement of juices near the currant begins quite early, so in March you can already observe the opening of the kidneys.
How to crop?
There are different varieties of shrubs, but the principle of pruning is the same. It is imperative that you use the garden secateurs to remove the following branches:
- weak and thin, on which there are few shoots;
- broken and painful (damaged by pests, covered with moss);
- old ones (thicker than young ones, have a dark color of the bark down to the black and cinnamon section, and not white, as in young shoots);
- growing inside the bush and thickening it;
- lying on the ground around the bush.
It is desirable to cut the shoots completely to ground level, without leaving stumps.
Experienced gardeners recommend a third to shorten the young shoots of blackcurrant, which will stimulate the branching of the plant. As for the white and red currants, they do not need to be greatly shortened, since the main part of the berries just appears on the upper part of the branches.
Another varietal difference should be taken into account: shoots that have reached 4-5 years of age are considered old in black currant, and 7-9 year old in red and white.
In order for the bush to bear fruit well and not get sick, he needs to provide good lighting and ventilation. To do this, shorten the tops of excessively grown annual shoots. They can be used as cuttings for the propagation of currants.
According to the rules of formation, a bush of black currant consists of 6-8 main branches of different ages, and red and white - from 10-12. The crown needs to be updated in stages: each year, leave 5 promising young shoots, and the old ones should be removed in the same amount.
Updating and loosening the trunk circle
The renewal of the trunk circle is a garden manipulation, which involves updating the old layer of mulch and cleaning the area from fallen leaves. It is necessary in order to protect the site from various wintering pests.
All collected mulch and fallen leaves must be put in compost or burned if the plant is sick with something.
After cleaning the site, carefully and shallowly loosen the soil with a chopper or pitchfork at some distance from the bush, so as not to touch its sensitive root system. Loosening will protect the earth from freezing with the onset of winter frosts.
After cultivating the land, it is necessary to form a new hole in order to simplify watering and fertilizing. After this, the site again needs to be mulched.
Watering
In autumn, special attention must be paid to strict adherence to the regime of irrigation measures. The bushes bore fruit abundantly throughout the growing season, and are therefore extremely sensitive to a deficiency of fluid in the soil. So, with sparse watering, their growth will slow down significantly, the berries will be chopped, and the yield of the plant will also be reduced.
In the case of an excessively arid autumn, regular and abundant watering of the bushes will help prevent freezing of currants during the wintering process.
Currant bush or 1 square. m of sown area should be watered with 4-6 buckets of water to moisten dry land to a depth of 50 cm. During heavy rainfall, irrigation measures are not necessary, especially if the bushes are properly mulched. If the weather is dry, then the plant should be watered until the onset of winter.
Top dressing
In autumn, it is necessary to feed the soil, since during the fruiting period, the shrub pulls all organic substances from it, including potassium and phosphorus. It is required to fill up not only their deficiency and nourish the plant for the winter, but also to create a reserve for the next year.
If the berries were harvested by mid-summer, then fertilizers with a fairly high nitrogen content can be used, but in August or autumn they are strictly prohibited. As a top dressing during this period it is allowed to use:
- Phosphoric and potassium fertilizers (superphosphate, potassium sulfate). These are “long-playing” components that do not affect the growth of the plant, but increase the quantity and quality of berries during the fruiting period. The root system of the bush begins to actively absorb them in late May, which will certainly affect the quality of the berries. So, even with a heavy load on the bushes, all the berries will be ripe and sweet. Fertilizers should be used in the form of concentrated granules.
- Compost, mullein, chicken droppings. These components are necessary for the active development of the vegetative mass, that is, they stimulate the growth of shrubs. They should be brought in before frosts, pouring directly into the trunk circle. For 3-4 months they decompose into simpler elements and are absorbed by the soil at the right time.
Humus and compost must be laid in the soil as late as possible - in October or November. The fact is that their decomposition will occur only after a couple of months, so the plant will receive the necessary chemical elements closer to spring, when it will be in great need of them.
- Ash. It is applied both as fertilizer and as mulch, as it helps to retain moisture under the soil for as long as possible. So, the earth will not crack in the spring, as it can happen under garden bushes or trees.
In order not to burn the plant and not harm its root system, the gardener should take into account what absolutely can not be done in the fall:
- Add concentrated humus. The level of nitrogen in the litter is too high - it will take about 3 months to weather it and preserve only safe components. In order not to burn the plant and not to destroy the vegetative mass, fertilizer should be applied at a distance of 25 cm from the stem of the plant. Directly under the bush, you can apply only non-concentrated fertilizers, that is, diluted with water.
- Fertilizing too early. In this case, premature circulation of the juice in the plant will occur, which will lead to its death during the first frosts.
- Fertilize in excess of the norm indicated on the label.. An excess of nutrients will lead to inhibition of the bush in development, therefore, even with abundant watering, it will remain “in place” in the spring.
Proper application of fertilizing will prepare the currant bush for winter, as well as get a plentiful and high-quality crop in the future.
Pest and Disease Treatment
In the autumn, currant care also involves the treatment of bushes from diseases and pests (bud mites, aphids), although the main work in this direction is carried out in the spring. To spray the plants, you can use chemical or biological agents, among which are especially popular:
- Bordeaux liquid (1% solution);
- Bitoxibacillin;
- Fitoverm;
- Fitosporin;
- Actara;
- Alatar;
- Speed;
- Topaz;
- Fundazole.
Experienced gardeners recommend treatment with systemic drugs - fungicides and insecticides. They penetrate the tissue of the plant and have a gradual effect throughout the bush, even where the solution did not get. In this way, these agents differ from contact preparations, which act only when directly exposed to the focus of inflammation or to a pest.
Spray the bushes at a temperature not lower than 20 ° C. Otherwise, they need to be wrapped with polyethylene. If you delay with processing, then the whole plant will be at risk. For example, it may be affected by a kidney tick. Females penetrate the kidneys of currants and cause their bloating. When infected kidneys open, ticks exit and penetrate new kidneys.
To destroy them, you will need to spray the plant with 2% Nitrafen solution or 0.2% Karbofos solution. Repeatedly the same treatment should be carried out after 10 days. After flowering, the bushes need to be sprayed with a solution of Karbofos or 1% solution of colloidal sulfur, but you can also use home remedies like tinctures of garlic, wormwood or tobacco.
The bending of branches and their shelter for the winter
Proper care of currant bushes in autumn will allow the plant to endure even the most severe frosts, as well as prevent breakage of branches. Some gardeners neglect the bending of branches and their shelter, because currants are frost-resistant crops and can withstand up to -25 ° C. However, the temperature may drop below the set point, so the branches will begin to die out and the harvest will not be so plentiful. The effects of drafts can also lead to such consequences.
To prepare the bush for severe frosts to -50 ° C and protect it from any negative effects, it should be properly prepared for winter. To do this, after the leaves fall, bend the branches so that they are as pressed to the ground as possible. There are several ways to use it:
- Collect branches in a bundle and tie cobblestones to them. After the bundle you need to bend from the center to the side so that the branches do not break, and the stem does not twist. It is recommended to do this at the end of October, when the branches are still not very brittle and easily twist into a “ram’s horn”.
- In the middle of the bush, drive a stick or rod, to which all the stems are tied, wrap with agrofibre or other insulation and, if desired, add mineral wool. In total, you can use one rod and one rope (it is better to take a thick kapron thread). In order for the plant to breathe freely, polyethylene should not be used for its shelter. When the circulation of the juice is large, the stems should be bent to one side and covered with a 5 cm layer of snow to keep the plant warm.
- Bend the branches and crush them with something heavy, such as a brick. It is best to use not one, but 6-7 bricks, which are distributed among all branches.
- To dig down the bent branches with soil, which is a high-quality natural insulation. Under this cover, the aerial part of the plant can withstand frosts down to -35 ° C. In the above cases, the plant can withstand up to -50 ... -45 ° C.
- Small bushes can be covered with wooden crates or burlap. It is necessary to ensure that such a shelter does not disrupt the wind, and with the onset of snowfall they can be completely removed, since snow is the best shelter for the plant.
It is extremely important in early spring to remove the shelter in a timely manner, otherwise the aerial part of the berry culture will warm up. In addition, with the onset of the thaw, it is extremely important to remove snow, otherwise it will become crusty and heavy. Shoots will not be able to support its weight and will break.
Features autumn care for young berry
In autumn, seedlings are planted in a permanent place in open ground, and after that they tear off all the leaves and use the pruner to cut shoots at a height of no more than 40 cm from the soil surface. The cut place is treated with garden var.
To help the plant adapt before the arrival of winter, for 2 weeks after transplanting, young bushes need to be watered abundantly, and after that it is possible to reduce the intensity of irrigation.
In addition, immediately after planting and the first watering of the seedling, the trunk should be covered with a layer of mulch at least 7 cm.In the next 3 years, the plant will not require top dressing if the soil is properly prepared for seedlings, fertilized with complex fertilizers, rotted manure and wood ash.
Young currants tolerate colds fairly stably, but in severe frosts it can completely freeze. To prevent such consequences, the base of the bush should be sprinkled with the first snow and slightly compacted. Further, as rain falls over the bush, it is worth forming a snow "coat". Shelter must be removed with the advent of the thaw.
Features of care for different varieties of currants
There are different varieties of currant culture, although the most popular are red and black species. Basically, caring for them in the autumn period involves the same manipulations, but some features can be distinguished depending on the variety of plants.
Redcurrant Care
A competent care is necessary for the bush, taking into account the following rules:
- To plant a plant in early autumn so that it finally takes root in winter. To do this, prepare a hole in advance so that the soil settles, and the fertilizers are absorbed. After planting, compact the earth around the bush, water it and mulch it. Cut the seedlings, leaving a pair of buds on the shoot.
- In late September or early October, in the absence of the required amount of rainfall, moisten areas around the bushes.
- Feed the plant with organic and mineral fertilizers: introduce 10-12 kg of compost or rotted manure under each bush, as well as 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium chloride. Dig up the area so that the fertilizers penetrate deep into the soil.
- In late autumn, at the end of the fruiting period and the dormancy stage, carry out sanitary pruning - remove broken, damaged, dried out and deformed branches.
Shoots of red currant bear fruit longer than black, so they do not require frequent anti-aging pruning.
Blackcurrant Care
In autumn, in the care of blackcurrant, special attention should be paid to such rules:
- After harvesting, feed the shrub with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to form future buds. For a successful wintering, superphosphate and potassium chloride must be added. Feeding is best done in liquid form when watering the plant.
- Remove the branches affected and growing inside the bush. In addition, to prepare the bush for winter, a complete sanitary pruning should be carried out. At the same time, it is advisable to carry out preventive treatment for diseases and pests, sprinkling bushes with Karbofos and Bordeaux liquid.
- Pinch the shoots in late August to reduce the risk of powdery mildew in the fall.
- Remove fallen leaves from the plot, sprinkle currant bushes with fertile soil or compost and sprinkle lightly with wood ash. In dry weather, moisten the ground by abundantly watering the bushes.
- Spread bushes to tie and lean on a wooden frame, which is set around the perimeter of the bushes.
Autumn is also the best time to root blackcurrants. So, at the end of September, it is worth planting cuttings so that they can adapt and prepare for the winter. Young growth does not require top dressing and trimming, since these manipulations are carried out in the process of planting.
Watch a video about preparing blackcurrants for winter:
Autumn mistakes gardeners
Novice gardeners often make mistakes that subsequently reduce the quantity and quality of yield. These include:
- Fresh manure under the bushes. It is a useful fertilizer, but it is necessary to spread it under the bushes not in the autumn, but in the winter when the colds come and the shoot growth stops. At this time, an excess of nitrogen in the manure will not have a negative effect, since it will decompose until spring into simple elements that currants can easily absorb. Autumn introduction of manure should be abandoned altogether if meltwater stands on the site in spring, since during floods all useful elements are completely washed out.
- The introduction of large volumes of organic matter under the bushes. If, after fruiting, an unreasonable amount of organic matter is introduced, the plant will build up excess green mass and forget about laying flower buds. Overfed plants will not be able to timely suspend growth and prepare for frost. Experienced gardeners also note that fluffy bushes do not give a plentiful harvest.
- Pruning a bush with improvised tools or breaking branches. Some gardeners break off branches or cut them with nippers, a knife or scissors. As a result, broken, ragged and damaged bushes do not tolerate winter, can hurt or be attacked by pests. So, to trim the bushes, you should use special tools:
- secateurs - for branches up to 1.5 cm thick;
- delimbers - for branches with a thickness of 1.5 to 3 m;
- garden saw - for old branches;
- knife - for stripping unsuccessful cuts.
- The use of synthetic materials for insulation of bushes. In the winter months, clean air should have unhindered access to the branches. If you cover the bushes with polyethylene or other similar materials, you can cause the death of the plant. In order to shelter, you can use agrofiber, mineral wool, spruce branches, fallen needles, forest foliage.
Thanks to the proper care of currants in the fall, you can get a harvest of delicious berries in the future. So, the bushes must be properly trimmed, fed, protected from pests and diseases, and also prepared for winter. You should also not neglect the features of care, depending on the variety of currants.